The first shivers of autumn are in the air, and I couldn’t be more pleased. I’m ready for some grey days and warm soups to slurp. Lately I've had chowder on my mind, despite the fact that I've never really been a chowder person. I wanted to create my own iteration that had the warmth and comfort of a classic chowder without the traditional weight of it.

Chipotles in adobo, bacon and smoked salmon build layers of smoke and spice, resulting in a super-flavorful broth that comes together quickly. Gently smashed potatoes and a swirl of heavy cream add light body to the soup while keeping the overall chowder feeling luxe but not leaden. It's exactly the kind of meal I crave when there's a chill in the air.

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Ingredients

4 slices thick-cut smoked bacon
2 leeks
1.5 lbs red potatoes, cut in 1" cubes
1 chipotle in adobo
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
4 oz good hot-smoked smoked salmon
1 Tbsp olive oil
kosher salt
fresh-cracked pepper
parsley, to garnish

Directions

Prepare your leeks by trimming off the root ends and dark green leaves. Cut them in half length-wise and then into 1/2" half-moons. Rinse well in cold water to remove any sediment, then pat dry.

Cut the bacon into 1/2" strips and cook over medium heat in a Dutch oven or small stock pot. Once the bacon is crispy and the fat has rendered, remove the bacon and save for later.

Adjust the heat to medium-high. Add the leeks and cubed potatoes to the bacon fat along with the olive oil, and stir to coat everything well.

Move the leeks and potatoes to one side of the pan, and add one chipotle (or more if you want it really spicy). Use a wooden spoon to break up the chipotle. Once it's mostly disintegrated, stir everything together and season with 1 teaspoon of salt and lots of cracked black pepper.

Cook until the leeks have wilted and their moisture has cooked off, about 7–10 minutes.

Add wine to deglaze the pan, then cook until the wine has mostly evaporated.

Add the chicken stock and bring everything to a simmer. Cook uncovered until the potatoes are tender, about 10–15 minutes. At this point, use your wooden spoon to break up some of the potatoes to add body to the chowder.

Turn the heat down to low and stir in the heavy cream. Taste the broth and season with more salt. You'll know it's well salted when each time you take a sip, you can't resist taking another one.

When you're happy with the seasoning, break the smoked salmon into large chunks and gently stir it in, along with the reserved bacon. Cook on low just long enough for the salmon to warm up.

Serve with a generous handful of chopped parsley to garnish.